February 2010

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Yesterday was a big day.

It stopped raining.

Yes, really, the sun came out and when we visited the campsite it wasn’t  all under an inch of water as it has been.  The amount of water throwing itself from the clouds, flinging its arms around everything and creeping in through the walls and windows beggars belief…

It’s been so frustrating, not being able to finish what we’ve started with the ditch and mud moving project.  It’s been too wet to move up there.  We couldn’t take another chunk out of our elephant because it was slippery when wet…

So – a chance to be on site without ‘mud shoes’ on (the comically large growths that accumulate around our actual shoes as we try to walk around the site!).  Time to make a window.

About 6 months ago, when considering the kitchen area in the campsite building and wishing we could have a little more protection from the weather, I had a green idea.  The open spaces in the kitchen are a bonus in the summer when the breeze wanders around, breathing respite from the harsh heat – so we need ‘pop in, pop out’ windows.  Holding up a 5-litre plastic water bottle and noticing that it’s bottom resembled a cool glass brick, I wondered aloud if we could put these empties to good use in a wooden framed demountable screen, that you could kinda see through…

The appeal to friends to save their big water bottles went out and many people, but especially Danny – thank you honey! – saved us roomfuls of the damn things.  To be honest, I’ve become a bit anxious about the whole project.  Everytime Steve curses the bottles that sit at the table with us in Topla and trip us up in the basement at the campsite, I think “I hope it works after all this”.

Having dismantled the tent up top last week, we were able to liberate the 3 long planks of wood that had been propped on bricks in the field tent & acted as our work surface.  We had wood, we had bottles, we had a dry day.  Time to make a prototype of the window and prove the idea of making a wooden frame and stuffing it with rows of plastic bottles would work.

This is the view from inside the building and this is what it looks like from the terrace below:

What do you think???

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As it happened, Matt & Amy getting married unexpectedly on Saturday couldn’t have worked out better.  There was a already a ‘wedding party’ planned that they beautifully crashed…

Katie & Tim got married last September in the UK and folks here were miffed not to have had a chance to celebrate their happy union with them.  So a plan was hatched for a party.  It was supposed to be on the weekend of Valentines Day – how romantic! – but that clashed with other social engagements planned for many of their mates.  No point trying to compete, just pick another date – the following Saturday.

So as the champagne was wearing off from celebrating one wedding, we made our way over to Bigova to prepare to celebrate another…  Steve & I got there early with our speakers & amp to help set up the sound system & to generally get the space and the happy couple in good shape for a night of fun.  Furniture was moved, food was prepared and the beautiful bride was laced into her amazing wedding corset:

You can see from this second photo a bit of the back of the corset although I failed to take a really good shot of it. Jeez it was a bugger to do up  but wasn’t it worth it?  And doesn’t Tim look dashing in his Murray tartan kilt?

The theme (for everyone but the hosts, seemingly!) was: wigs, hats, tails or masks – or any combo of the above and most people really rose to the dressing up challenge.  You can’t really make it out very well here but I made a tail and swung it all night:

And Katie & I had a lot of fun with it!

The prize for the funniest dancing goes jointly to Tony Browne & Paul Currion.  When they donned those amazing pink wigs…

they transformed into extraordinary creatures.  I took loads of shots of Tone & DJ Paul’s impromptu dance routine but they were moving so fast the pics were all blurry.  But Matt has video proof of DJ Paul’s hilarious moves which we just about peed our pants watching…

It was a TOP night – great food (all veggie, all delicious, none of it helping an iota in my bid to trim & tone!); enough booze to drown in; great tunes and non-stop dancing…  Not surprisingly the wigs did  the rounds with everyone trying them on.  This wig really suited Ann:

Not true of Richard, however:

Here’s Katie hoping that Laura the cat doesn’t give birth to her kitten quite yet!

Here’s some other hilarious pink wiggers:

Tim was the MOST funniest drunk.  Hard to explain what a character he was that night but here’s a great shot of him in Roger Bathos’ Rasta Wig:

Here’s pics of the freshly married couple looking rather stranger & more dishevelled then a few hours earlier:

And Fiona gets the prize for keeping her masks on ALL night (here she is in the scarier of the 2) AND for being there at the bitter end, still doing Tequila shots with Katie at 4.00 am…

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The weekend kinda started on Thursday with a delicious curry at Hayley & Jack’s – tender beef cooked to spicy perfection, stacks of poppodoms & mango chutney.  Shame really because I had just joined Jenn over here in her bid to trim and tone…

And then in this strange country that doesn’t even have a good authentic Italian restaurant never mind a Chinese or, God forbid, Indian I found myself, bizarrely, eating curry & accompaniments 2 nights on the trot (yes, a sideway’s reference to “curry bum” there…).  Friday’s Curry Night at Izvor was hyped a bit in the preceding days because Amy & Matt (who had been trying for many months to muster up all the necessary paperwork & courage to tie the knot in Montenegro) unexpectedly had a slot at the registry office at 3pm on Friday.  Since they didn’t want to make a fuss and invited only Steve & I as Kum & Kuma (Best Man & Woman)  and friends Jack & Hayley, the evening’s do which most of the ex-pat community & friends would be attending would be the perfect occasion to say “Surprise!  We just got married – now celebrate with us!”.

In an interesting twist, the fateful appointment was switched to Saturday at 1.00pm at the last minute.  By now folk were queuing for their hot beef curry or mild prawn awaiting the surprise Amy had dangled earlier in the week.  So the story broke and suddenly we had an ‘event’ on our hands with only 16 hours to go.  Steve got quite freaked when Vesna solemnly congratulated him on his impending Kum-ing… being Best Man in the Balkans is a BIG deal.

Saturday started soggy and just got more wringing wet as the day progressed.  We had a pretty intense morning.  Matt & Steve dashed around buying champagne and stuff.  Laura & I drove to Amy’s where bedlam reigned in the shape of a very loud & disgruntled Grace and Ellie with a massive bump on her head having rolled off the bed.  Somehow Amy managed to get herself & Number 1 daughter in the shower so Ellie was left alone to have a snooze in peace.  Ann arrived with flowers for the bridal party…

and a burek for Grace.  Between us we got Grace fed & dressed…

… and kept her entertained with puzzles whilst Mummy & little sis got dressed.

We made tea, ferried stuff into the car in the pouring rain and somehow got us all up the hill from hell and to the Opstina on time, scooping Hayley up on the way.  It was crazily frantic with little time to breathe  and before we knew it the official ceremony was in full swing.  Remarkably Grace was pretty calm, rings were exchanged…

… old names and new names were forged in ink and important agreements were made.  Here’s Matt & Amy about to seal their official union with a kiss:

Time to breathe a sigh of relief, relax & drink some bubbly with friends at Portofino…

Remember this picture – they’ll look at lot more dishevelled in Part II…

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Moving home…

We realised when we arrived on the land yesterday that it was time to take down the big tent up top because it was getting hammered by the weather and now looked like this:

Steve threw me lots of dirty looks.  Mea culpa.  Sorry.  We should have taken it down in the autumn hun.  You were right.  I was wrong.

We set about dismantling it reliving fond memories.  It was our home for the best 2 months of last summer when us & Nik slogged to get the campsite ready and the tent was our field kitchen, our bar, our ‘living room’ when it rained & the canvas that our 2-man tent snuggled inside.  We hoped we would salvage enough from the wreckage to be able to re-erect it on the main campsite. Mmmm – most of the canvas is rotten beyond repair and the tarps we used to patch up the leaky roof last year are shredded but most of the poles are still (incredibly!) intact.

Poor tent had even got struck by lightning – well that’s the only explanation we can come up with for the burnt canvas right below one of the metal poles:

Turns out that the tent was home to a bunch of other creatures and we (inadvertently) evicted a load of tenants!

A family of ants:

A pair of spiders (well – way more than a pair but these were the biggest and most photogenic!):

A beautiful scarab beetle that shone like a gem.  Unfortunately it had ‘beetled off’ by the time I had retrieved the camera from its dry place out of the rain (yep, nothing like a little grey drizzle to make the already difficult task of tent dismantling even more treacherous – lots of slipping about & wet, muddy bums!).

A salamader-type-thingy dude (sorry – don’t know the exact species – just got lost in the labyrinths of herpetelogical classification and …. aaargh!!):

And most exciting of all… an ickle bat.  We think it’s a Common Pipistrelle.  Sooo cute.  Soft too – I stroked it:

And here’s the site with the big tent gone…

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Long haired lover

Since today is Valentine’s Day, it seems the appropriate time for an update on my hubby and that hair…

Steve is my friend; the rock that I lean on (& sometimes trip over!) and my (at the moment, long – for him – haired) lover.  He’s decided that he’ll probably never get another chance to grow it and he’s also talking about dyeing it.  What d’you think,  could he be approaching 50 & working up a mid-life crisis? Nah! Never!? (Much!)

Here, in a crafty moment – you can see the curly mop developing.  I mean, he’s using products & everything!  Yep – shampoo (where once shower gel was enough for the barely-there shaved fluff); gel & mousse have somewhere to go on his head now as he experiements with styles!  I KNOW, I should have taken photos of same – Doh!

Compared to Blazo (below) he still has a way to go.  I’m interested to see when long enough is enough…

Anyway – I love all the hairs on his head no matter how long or short!

In case you’re wondering – no, I didn’t get a Valentine’s card.  But I did get to sleep in until 9.30am and he cleaned the cooker.  Did we spend a romantic day with massages & candles & tussles under the duvet?  Nope – we worked on the land digging mud, shifting stone & re-building terrace walls. Here’s a pic of the stairs nearly filled in with mud.  Yeah!  (Also, Steve’s hair is long enough here to show the grey!)

And the newly renovated stone wall is like our love – solid as a rock!

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The power of Nature

Last night we had a bonkers storm here.  I lay awake for hours listening to her chucking ice at us & wrenching the night apart with crashing thunderbolts.  Lightning seem to spark through every window.  When I peered out the window as the day began, there were piles of sleet & ice laying on the ground.  I had to chuckle as we had talked earlier in the day about the weather.  Snow was forecast & we had all said, sagely, ‘oh no, it’s too warm for snow’, ‘the time for snow & ice has passed’ & other such nonsense…

When will we learn not to underestimate Nature?  I’ve felt her power as we’ve worked on the land.  That’s the bonus of all this hard graft – close connection to the earth.  Look at this beautiful rock, covered with the prettiest, most delicate lichen:

And the earth that we struggle to lift with hands and shovels is being worked & broken up by these amazing creatures:

Charles Darwin said of them:

“It may be doubted whether there are many other animals which have played so important a part in the history of the world, as have these lowly organised creatures”

And Amy Stewart wrote a whole book on them…

Nature has the power to drive me crazy too.  We’ve been kept company by a whole variety of birdlife as we dig and sweat.  Robins, Redstarts, Blackcaps, Blackbirds & majestic birds of prey.  The Robins particularly have been tormenting me – perching close by, pushing out their beautiful red breasts, eyeing the camera cockily & dodging every shot!

I leave you with a green beauty – a wild euphorbia, I think…

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Eating an elephant

The Ditch (yes, it’s become The ‘capitalized’ Ditch) is our bête noir, our albatross, the elephant task that we are eating chunk by chunk…  Pray with me that it’s not our White Elephant.

But we have achieved great things this week.  The Ditch is filled in.  We have finished barrowing gravel.  18 cubic metres of the darned stuff.  God knows how many tons.  This is the end of The Ditch, where the pipes flow into the stream:

This is me digging away at the piles of dirt & shovelling it into The Ditch:

This is a crap picture (grey day; achy, shaky hands after shovelling mud all day) but it is a triumphant one – here, the patch of land in between the stream & the garden that was butchered by the digger is shown already on the way to recovery:

The problem now is what to do with all the surplus mud.  Some of it – the red/brown mud not the blue/grey clay – has been put on the raised beds or shovelled into big pots to be mixed with sand and compost and used to set seeds off soon.  But because we mostly filled in with gravel we have most of a 100m trench worth of mud to deal with.  We shifted some huge rocks around at the bottom of the stream-side steps and filled it with earth, creating a new planting bed.  Looks a bit rough now but imagine it filled with flowers:

We left the stream-side area and moved up to the building to start tackling the mud piles there.  We are desperate to get the mud gone – it’s killing the grass and we so want to have healthy, grassy terraces this year not more ‘clay mountains’.  The greywater system needs to be protected and covered so we have decided to encase it with the spoil from The Ditch.  First we have to repair & build up the stone wall of the terrace to contain the earth:

I was dragging & barrowing big rocks from around the land whilst Steve was developing his skills as a stone waller.  My back twinges just looking at this photo…

We are getting there.  Slowly but surely.  We will dig & move all the mud; the grass will recover; things around here will be green again soon.  Mantras repeated as I breathe and dig…

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Helping Hands

“Many hands make light work” or in our case… “many hands fill ditch in & stop lightning striking”!

Here’s who’s been mucking in over the last few days…

Blazo & Vedran made short work of 3.5 cubics of ’slunak’ (large gravel) and really helped move things along.  Their strength & youth made us feel old & weak but we were grateful anyway!

With those 2 on the only barrow and Steve preparing the ditch for the boys (ie. digging out where the mud had fallen in & packing the sides with fresh mud/ clay when they had collapsed & were too wide), I started to tidy up areas of the grounds.  This is where the wood pile used to be:

Just got to get the last of that muddy spoil levelled out & the paths around the back & side of the building will be clear again.  The soil I am trying to shift is so horrid – blue, glupy, clay they call ‘dead earth’ here.  So once we have scraped all the clay level we will let it settle for a while and one day, when funds allow we’ll invest in a load of top soil and grass seed and make it green again. The best way to shift the clay is to pick it up with our hands …

(No, I have’t dyed my hair – it’s just had all the summer blonde cut out of it!  Not the best shot of the new hairdo, but hey…)

And throw it…

Here’s the new location for the wood pile:

And here’s another area I have lovingly removed the rocks & clods of nasty clay from & raked level-ish.  It’s the nearest patch of earth to the compost chambers & it will be where we unload our well rotted compost from the loss this summer.  It’s also nicely in the shade & so I’m hoping to grow lettuce, rocket & other summer greens there that refuse to grow in the raised beds at the height of the heat…

Matt brought over his climbing ropes and got up on the roof to attach the lightning strip to the ’sponjicas’ at the top of the roof.

Meanwhile his sidekick, Lubo, shovelled & barrowed gravel.

Here’s a shot of the ditch a couple of days ago. It’s even closer to being finished now but I’ll wait until it’s DONE (and tidier) before I take more shots…

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Maybe that should be Plan A?  I’m sure there’ll be several tweaks to my good intentions along the way…

Over the holiday period (yes folks, pretty much the whole of January is a holiday here in Monte!) I’ve been reading books & blogs about all things green and feeling inspired, overwhelmed, excited, depressed, frustrated, hopeful & hopeless, all on a regular basis.  Torn. Generally.  Wrestling with my hopes & dreams – trying to  focus on things in the  ‘possible, simple & cheap’ pile rather than the ‘wildest dreams but not a hope in hell right now’ pile.

I would love to have the time, patience & 50 squids to make my own Stilton like Gavin but I don’t.  Or keep chooks like Rhonda but until we can safely secure our boundary and be living on the land pretty much full time, forget it.  I would love to have the greenhouses that El does so we can grow many more things all year round but no spare cash for that yet.  One day we’ll keep bees, like Jenna but not yet…

This is a great book that inpired me hugely:

But we have to face facts.  Right now, living where we do, with the limited local language skills we have, with the limited space we have to grown our own & no funds to invest in self sufficiency stuff – our ability to eat only seasonal food is, well, limited…

So here’s the stuff we can do – our simple plan for the foreseeable future:

  1. Install a rainwater collection system on the land, to collect water from the roof of the workshop and the main building.  With this ‘free’ water we will quench the thirst of the flower beds & gardens that are too high up to be irrigated by the siphon from the stream or the greywater system.
  2. Grow more vegetables & herbs. Last year, we read our packets of seeds carefully and planted things so many cms apart whilst our neighbours packed plants into every corner, cheek by jowl.  They won.  However, we suspect  non-organic intervention aided their big yields so we’ll be cramming more in but not as much as the locals in order to stay true to our 100% organic principles.  We’ll also be utilising the area we call ‘the orchard’ to grow more and doing some bucket gardening.
  3. Preserve more food. This year the only vegetables we preserved from our own garden were green tomatoes (in chutney) and pumpkin (in soup).  I intend to freeze more herbs, especially coriander and hope that the extra planting gives us gluts of stuff that we can learn how to freeze, pickle & can.  I think our basement on the campsite will make a good cold store so I’m going to try to buy more stuff whilst in season (like apples) and then store them to have some months later (hopefully).
  4. Eat less meat. Now that I’ve mastered the art of giving Steve vegetarian meals without him saying “Very nice, but where’s the meat?” I intend to slip in 1 or 2 every week (Sssh, don’t tell!).  This will save us some pennies and help keep weight & cholesterol under control.
  5. Find out more about the provenance of the meat we do eat. I have begun asking local friends for recommendations – who do they know who has a farm with dead animals to spare etc?  It will be tough because most people only have enough livestock to support their own families but even if we can get the occasional meat direct from a local farmstead, it will be a step in the right direction.
  6. Mend & make do more often. I was about to throw away a handbag last week.  I was reluctant – it is a roomy ole’ carrier and it has special sentimental value – but people were tutting and looking at me disapprovingly as bits of the handle disintergrated over everything.  Then I realised the only problem with the bag is the handle.  I am taking it to my very clever crafty friend this week and asking her to make me a new handle.
  7. Make more things. Ilona is an inspiration – the stuff she makes out of gubbins that folk normally chuck away is incredible.  I would love to have time to be more creative just for the hell of it but to be honest that’s a luxury.  However, when we really need something we have started to ask ourselves – ‘how can we make that?’
  8. Share the green love. Gently educating people around us has produced suprising results but we can do more.  I have learned that most people do bad stuff (by ‘bad’ I mean harmful to the planet; wasteful etc) out of ignorance – they don’t know any different & neither did we a few short years ago… A friend around here has become interested in our eco missions since she started collecting plastic bottles for our plastic bottle screen.  She doesn’t live frugally because she doesn’t have to but when I went shopping with her recently I challenged her about the money she spent on tomatoes.  “They’ll tast nasty” I said, “No matter how much you pay”.  Tomatoes here in season are TO DIE FOR – just the most tasty, delicious fruit.  I could literally live on them alone, drizzled with a little local olive oil & sprinkled with salt.  So, have them in season and avoid tasteless imposters at all other times.  I was right – they tasted nasty.  And so began the gentle conversation about where food comes from & why local & seasonal is best…
  9. Be conscious. Consciously think & do… Do I need to buy …?  Can I make a replacement for…? Do I have to throw this away?  Can I reuse…? What happens if I do…?  What happens if I don’t do…?  Is there a greener way?  Is there a cheaper/ more effective way?

Here’s some things I won’t be buying anymore:

  1. Household cleaning products. I am already using essential oils like tea tree, clove & rosemary to clean most things but I am about to purchase the few ingredients I need (baking soda, white vinegar, soda water) to make my own all purpose cleaner, glass cleaner & scourer.
  2. Jam. Well, ok, I will still buy it if I see it on special offer because I only managed to make marmalade so far this year but as soon as the first round of sweet fruits appear I will be jamming like Bob Marley and in the meantime we will be working our way through the jars of orange & grapefruit marmalade.
  3. Cling film. I am reusing plastic bags to cover things I would normally use the plastic film for.  Would like to ditch aluminium foil too but can’t find a suitable substitute for covering roasts in the oven.  Any ideas anyone?
  4. Dish cloths & cleaning cloths. I’m recycling old clothes, towels etc into useful rags.
  5. Paneer. Not that you can buy the indian cheese here anyway but I use a local substitute for my Spiced Paneer recipe when I cook up my Indian feasts.  No more however – I have just read how easy it is to make and am going to grow my own!

All out of inspiration now and bones are aching for bed (yes, we did get back to work today folks! Ouch.) So I’ll call it a day and update you on the things I’ve forgotten or as new ideas emerge.

ZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

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We have now been home for 6 days and so far have only spent a couple of hours on the campsite working… We are getting distracted by a million other things – blogs, friends, fixing  computers… Steve has been staying up half the night fiddling with networks, websites, photos & other such tekkie stuff.  He crawls to bed between 3 – 4 am and then is reluctant to rise much before 10.00 am.  It all has to stop – we have a BIG LIST, as big as a big thing on a big day and nowt’s getting done.  Tomorrow is D-Day – rain or shine, we are up early and at work by 9.00 am.

Today we very nearly made it to the land but just as we were preparing to leave, the heavens opened.  It was the excuse Steve needed to stay put.  To be fair he was on a mission to fix Katie’s laptop & he’s done a brilliant job, earning us a day out on Monty B as a reward.  So I decided to use my day wisely and headed to the kitchen to make soup.

Every soup starts with onions.  And tears.

I am trying to eat what’s in season and avoid all imported products.  In practise, this means getting the cheapest products in the store as anything that’s exotic and/ or travelled a long way to be there is usually markedly more pricey.  The good, cheap vegetables at the moment are: the roots (carrots, parsnips, turnips), spuds, onions & white cabagge.  So that’s the fresh veg I had to work with.

I’m also trying to use up ingredients in my stockpile.  I have tons of coriander seeds, so I ground some and used it in the first soup: Carrot & Coriander.

According to my new frugal principles, I am trying to use food sparingly and wisely.  I have some cooked, smoked ham which is delicious but quite fatty.  I trimmed the fat off some slices of ham and used it to flavour the base of my next soup: Peppery Potato & Ham.  There is a tiny bit of ham in the soup but the fat imparted such a meaty, smoky flavour that I didn’t need much.  Don’t worry folks – our cholesterol levels are safe, I removed the fat once the stock had taken up its taste.  Regular old ground black pepper is an unsung hero in the cooking charts -  in my opinion, it really helps to enhance the taste of spuds.

Back to my stockpile & to the jars of Indian spices I have lurking there…  The aromatic tastes won’t be worth a sniff if I don’t use them soon, so… Indian Spiced Vegetable Soup it is!  Here’s a shot of the 3 different soups – clockwise from left: the Spiced Veg & Peppery Potato in plastic pots ready to be frozen & in front the Carrot & Coriander which I manage to take a picture of in between sups!

I decided to break my own rules next & follow a recipe!  Another ingredient I have lots of that needs using up before it gets too old is English Mustard Powder and I found a great recipe for a Mustardy Lentil Pottage in Leith’s Vegetarian Bible.  I tried to take a photo of this hearty beauty but honestly it just looked like a bowl of sick!  Tasted delicious though.

I am so glad I picked up the recipe book because I found a French Onion Soup recipe that looked too good to pass up.  Who knew that in order to properly caramelize onions you have to cook them for 30 minutes!!?!  I am such an impatient cook that I would never be bothered to do this ordinarily.  Now I know that this is half an hour well spent & will be cooking my onions slowly & patiently more often in the future…

Of course, the obvious accompaniment to soup is… bread.  I have a gluten intolerance so try to minimise the bread I eat and only ever buy the local cornbread, which is mostly made with cornflour & has a lot less gluten than normal bread.  To my delight I found soya flour & rice flour in my local supermarket (both gluten free) and have been waiting for a chance to try making some bread.  Unfortunately I couldn’t find a recipe using only the ingredients I had – most recipes used a mix of brown rice flour, potato flour & soya flour & had stuff like Xanthum Gum or summat.  I pushed on, regardless, finding a recipe that I could follow-ish.  Looks ok but still pretty soggy in the middle – a bad combo of the wrong ingredients and my strange ‘dot dash’ oven…  It’ll be fine toasted though.

I have made 18 portions of soup today & used up a ton of empty marg & mayo pots from my stash of reuseable plastic stuff putting them in containers & freezing them.  That’s 9 lunches on the land taken care of.  We just grab a pot from the freezer when we set off in the morning and heat it up on the stove at the campsite when we’re hungry.  One step closer to being ready to do some work…

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